Rilyn’s Journals

January 7, 2026

Grace in a Foreign place

Feliz navidad, feliz año nuevo y feliz Reyes Magos!

It feels like a lifetime has passed since I last wrote. December arrived quietly and then disappeared all at once. I have officially reached the point in this chapter of my life where time no longer moves normally. November felt like a single week, and December felt like a single breath. And somehow, within that breath, I lived a month I will carry with me for the rest of my life.

In Spain, Christmas formally begins on December 8th, when the country celebrates a day where families decorate their homes, hang lights, and carefully set up their belénes (manger scenes). Some families have Christmas trees, while others dedicate their time and space to detailed nativity scenes filled with tiny houses, animals, and figures. One thing I noticed is that decorating here is not rushed or purely aesthetic. It is traditional, meaningful, and deeply personal. Similar to the U.S., there are Christmas lights on the streets, decorations on the balconies, and many Christmas songs. On December 8th, because our house was already decorated, my host family and I spent the day together by going to Gandía, about forty five minutes away, where we walked along the beach, had lunch, and enjoyed the calm and tranquility of the day. Later, we went to Valencia to shop for Christmas. The city was alive with lights, crowded streets, shopping bags, and people fully immersed in the season. That same evening, I met up with some Rotary friends who live in Valencia, and we were able to hang out and do some shopping together. 

That same week, I traveled with my host parents to Zaragoza, Logroño, and Vitoria, and this trip showed me a completely different side of Spain. In Logroño, we walked along Calle Laurel, which is a street famous for its countless tapas bars. Eating there is an experience in itself. You stand, you talk, you share, and then you move on to the next place. My favorites were champiñones and torreznos. Vitoria was calm, clean, and peaceful, with green parks and open spaces woven throughout the city. The surrounding farmland stretched endlessly, and in a surprising way, reminded me of home. In this region, I learned that Christmas traditions also looked different. Instead of Santa Claus, they celebrate Olentzero, a traditional Basque character dressed like a coal worker or farmer who brings gifts to children. Seeing his image throughout the city made it clear how much Christmas changes depending on where you are, even within the same country.

Later in December, we visited Madrid, where I experienced Christmas on a much larger scale. The decorations, lights, food, and energy felt endless. We visited immaculate places, including Plaza de Colón, the Prado Museum, Puerta del Sol, and El Retiro Park. We also managed to do some Christmas shopping, and the stores were full of life and excitement. This was my second time going to Madrid and I believe my love for that city just continues to grow. 

Back in Alcoy, my weekends were filled with family, friends and small moments that made this place feel like home. One evening, we shared a meal with my host dad’s extended family, including his cousins, siblings, aunts and uncles. Later that evening, my rotary friend and I welcomed other exchange students to Alcoy, showing them around and creating memories together. At school, we played amigo invisible, a gift exchange like Secret Santa, which I found especially fun.

Christmas in Alcoy is something entirely its own. The city’s celebrations revolve around Los Reyes Magos, or the Three Kings, who are celebrated on the night of January 5th. They represent the three wise men who followed the star to bring gifts to baby Jesus. Because of this, Christmas here doesn’t end on December 25th; instead, it stretches into January. While Papa Noel (Santa Claus) brings gifts on Christmas, the Three Kings also bring gifts on January 5th, which ultimately makes the season feel longer and more intentional. Here in Spain, the Three Kings are undeniably a much bigger celebration than Santa Claus.

Nochebuena, or Christmas Eve, was especially meaningful. The day began with lunch at a restaurant with school friends, where we shared tapas and laughter. In the evening, I attended a Christmas Eve church service with my host family, and afterward we went to my host grandmother’s house for a large family dinner. Food is everywhere during Christmas (well, all the time actually). You can find a variety of cheeses and jamon on the table, as well as Turrón (a traditional Christmas sweet), along with polvorones, mantecados, chocolates, and endless trays of sweets that never seem to run out. After dinner, my host sisters, cousins, and I opened gifts together. Then, we all returned home, where Papa Noel had delivered gifts. My host family and I gathered around the tree and opened gifts together, which was so special.

I would be remiss if I didn’t say that I missed my family, but at the same time I felt incredibly blessed to have a host family who loves me as their own. I was, and still am deeply grateful to experience a Christmas I will likely never experience again (in this capacity). In the grand scheme of things, I have many holidays ahead of me in the U.S., so in hindsight, one year feels like a small sacrifice for the overflowing memories I’ve made thus far.

On the 25th, Christmas Day, we gathered again at my host grandmother’s house with cousins, aunts, and uncles for lunch, where we shared a delicious meal. That evening, I went out with friends for dinner, and we were all dressed nicely. We enjoyed a nice meal, danced, and made countless memories. On Nochevieja, (New Year’s Eve), we welcomed the new year by spending time in a house in the mountains, where we prepared a delicious paella and ate twelve grapes at midnight, one for each chime of the clock, each grape symbolizing prosperity and blessings for the new year. I found the tradition of eating 12 grapes fun and interesting, and I plan to continue the tradition in the U.S.

One of the most special moments leading up to Reyes Magos is the arrival of the Burrito. On January 4th, small donkeys come through the streets of Alcoy so that children can deliver their letters with their Christmas wishes. Families line the streets, children wait eagerly with their envelopes in hand, and the atmosphere is filled with excitement and anticipation. Watching this tradition made it clear how deeply the city protects its magic, ensuring that even the youngest generations feel seen and included in the celebration.

Alcoy is also especially known for Els Pajes, the helpers of the Three Kings. They are like elves that wear colorful costumes, collect letters from children, and on the night of the 5th, they deliver gifts by climbing ladders up to balconies. This is a tradition especially unique in the city I live in, because the Pajes originated here, and they are not widely recognized in Spain. The celebration is loud, chaotic, and emotional, and it is clear how much it means to the people who grew up here. Another tradition is Tirisiti, a classic Christmas puppet show that families attend every year. Even though it was in Valencian and I did not understand everything, I could tell how deeply rooted it was in the culture. It is one of those traditions that is a part of who you are if you grow up here.

The celebration of Reyes Magos on January 5th was utterly impressive and unforgettable. We began the day with a big lunch at my host aunt and uncle’s house before heading out to watch the cabalgata, the grand parade. That night, there were fireworks, music, the Three Kings, who entered on Camels, a beautiful manger scene, the Holy Family (Mary, Joseph, and baby Jesus), and Els Pajes (the helpers of the 3 kings) filling the streets. I was completely astonished with this celebration, as it felt like the Fourth of July blended with the warmth of Christmas, made even more powerful by camels, donkeys, and a celebration rooted entirely in honoring the birth of Christ, the ultimate gift. 

That night, the Pajes delivered gifts, which I found very neat, and we opened them together surrounded by family. Later, we returned to my host grandmother’s house for dinner, where we ate roscón de Reyes (a traditional cake eaten here). Inside the roscón were two hidden surprises, a small figurine of one of the Kings and a brown bean. Whoever found the king was crowned and considered the winner, and whoever gets the bean traditionally has to pay money. We also drank hot chocolate which is much different than hot chocolate in the U.S.---it’s thick, almost like melted chocolate, and shared jamón, which is undoubtedly one of my favorite foods of Christmas. After celebrating, my family returned home where we found that the Reyes Magos had visited and left many gifts under the tree. My host sisters and I opened gifts and celebrated into the night. One thing that is different is that here in Alcoy, the gifts come on the night of the 5th and they are wrapped in brown wrapping paper with our names boldly written in black; however, in the rest of Spain, things begin on the morning of the 6th.

As I look back on this season, I realize I had one incredible experience, and I feel overwhelmingly blessed. Blessed with a city that honors its traditions instead of letting them fade. Blessed with a family that welcomed me and loved me as their own. Blessed with a culture that gathers around the table for hours and a cuisine I could never grow tired of.

One of the most important lessons I’ve learned over the past month is to give myself grace. It is easy to forget that I am still learning, that I am a seventeen year old girl navigating life in a foreign country, language, and culture all at once. For future exchange students: know that even on the best days, mistakes are inevitable, and moments of embarrassment are simply a part of life. What I am learning is that growth does not come from dwelling or being overly critical of myself, but from allowing myself to move forward with patience and understanding. This experience has taught me forgiveness and the extension of that same grace to the people around me. During the holidays especially, I would encourage future students to stay busy, participate fully in traditions even when they feel unfamiliar, try all the foods, and remain present and engaged. A major reason for the success I’ve had so far is my willingness to speak, interact, and involve myself with my host family, surrounding myself with love, support and unity on a daily basis. I cannot emphasize enough how essential open communication and genuine interaction are to feeling connected and at home.

Time is flying faster than I ever imagined, and I cannot believe how quickly this chapter is unfolding. Yet even as days dissolve into memories, I feel grounded by this place and these people. This season taught me that blessings do not always arrive in familiar forms. Sometimes they look like unfamiliar streets that slowly become home, strangers who become family, and traditions that shape your heart in ways you never expected. For all of it, I am endlessly thankful. Here’s to a new year full of growth, purpose, grace, and trusting where I am being led.

Until next time